July 3, 2023: Virginia Falls

We would have an extra day at the top of the falls while the guides portaged down gear and got the rafts set up.

We walked back to the falls in the morning, spending more time exploring around the top, and marvelling at the force of the water - it almost seems you can feel the ground vibrate from it, and the sound is an ever-present backdrop. It it weren't so hot and sunny, we could have spent all day there.


Obligatory Parks Canada red chair shot

The rocks near the top of the falls had an unusual appearance - fairly smooth and grey on top, but porous and white underneath - perhaps some kind of limestone erosion process?


Meanwhile, our guides, and good-hearted volunteers Jen and Richard, were shuttling all the river gear down to the base of the falls. The water is too rough at the base for a floatplane to land and unload there. There is a boardwalk for most of the portage trail, making for easy walking, but at the end it is a narrow, muddy and rocky trail with four switchbacks.

Our rafts are visible far below - see inside the tiny red circle

In fact, most of the park has boardwalk trails, as much of the ground is wet and covered in delicate mosses and other plants that would otherwise be crushed underfoot. The three outhouses are reached by boardwalks, and elevated high over ground, making it seem like a mini-city reached by an elevated highway.

Although it would have been nice to do the well-known hike up Sunblood Mountain for the view, our guides judged it too hot and sunny, as the trail is very exposed. So, we lounged around camp in the afternoon - Miles and Kendra played Exploding Kittens cards with Andy, and Mark and I did laundry, using "filtered" water from one of the clear pools of water in the undergrowth (the river, and any fast-moving run-off streams, are very silty). We also played with the frisbee, and several people spotted pine martens frolicking around their nest en route to the outhouses.

Our resident Whiskey Jack, watching for food

A silty stream that empties into the silty river

Fraser handed out our "adventure cups" (pottery cups made by Canoe North founder Al), linking something he had observed about each of us to an animal depicted on the cup - Miles received the rabbit (being so energetic), Mark the porcupine (travels widely and "tastes" its environment), and I received the dragonfly (observant of local wildflowers). Then Ginger and I helped Maegan prepare dinner (ginger chicken and rice) for our night of dinner duty. 

After dinner we went to the landing for a presentation by the Parks Canada staff on local Dene crafts and games. Miles was thrilled to be the best at the game where you close your eyes and raise a pelvic bone in one hand, then try to point your finger into the socket with your other hand overhead, on the first try. It was surprisingly difficult for the rest of us.

Mark and Richard battle it out to win the greased stick game (Mark was the victor)




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