July 5, 2023: The Gate

We were happy to leave the ants behind, and set off to good weather. We stopped off on a stony shore for a history lesson about the McLeod brothers - prospectors who went missing in 1903, and whose bodies were later found, headless. Two more men were found dead, and headless, in subsequent years, starting myths about the curse of the Nahanni. Later, we pulled over for lunch, and found moose tracks along the shore.

Moose track (Miles' hand for scale)

The canyon walls are amazing, and always surprising, as the meandering river means there are new views around every bend. Third Canyon has softer rocks and more of a broad V-shape than the other canyons; its cliffs are up to 500 feet high. Drifting down the river is very peaceful (when there are no rapids) and Miles and Kendra tried their hands at the oars.




Miles rowing, Fraser relaxing





Our campsite for the night was at The Gate, with an amazing view of Pulpit Rock. This is where the river broke through the oxbow of its original course at one point, creating a new, narrow channel. Mark had a quick splash bath in the clear, but very cold, creek, and we did some laundry. Dinner was chilli, and Miles and Kendra roasted marshmallows for us for desert. 

Our tent, laundry line, and dry bags

Panorama of The Gate

To the left of us is the old river course, to the right is the new course

Mark's very chilly splash bath

Dinner under the shelter. Although there were still some ants, they were greatly reduced in quantity, and not as frenetic in activity.

Perfect marshmallow top - Miles and Kendra were competing for best marshmallow

Richard has been remarking on how Miles always has a stick in his hand (a lifelong habit), so Miles decided to outdo himself, picking up an entire trunk from the shore and carrying it back up to camp.



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